O’ zapft ist!

September 22nd, 2012 by The Guru

Happy Autumn! And Happy Oktoberfest! O’ zapft ist!

I just happened to have five Bavarian Oktoberfests in my beer fridge, so I decided to post a little review and beer history. Tough job, I know, but someone has to do it, might as well be the Guru…

A quick review: Oktoberfest is a 16-day festival held annually in Munich, Bavaria, Germany, running from late September to the first weekend in October. It is one of the most famous events in Germany and is the world’s largest fair, with more than 5 million people attending every year. The Oktoberfest is an important part of Bavarian culture, having been held since 1810. The festival is held in an area named the Theresienwiese (field, or meadow, of Therese), often called Wies’n for short, located near Munich’s center. Large quantities of Oktoberfest Bier are consumed, with almost 7 million liters served during the 16 day festival. Only beer conforming to the Reinheitsgebot, at a minimum of 12.5% Stammwurze (approximately 6% alcohol) may be served at Oktoberfest. The beer must also be brewed within the city limits of Munich. Beers meeting these criteria may be designated Oktoberfest Bier.

The breweries that can produce Oktoberfest Beer under the criteria are: Augustiner-Bräu, Hacker-Pschorr Bräu, Löwenbräu, Paulaner-Bräu, Spatenbräu and Stätlisches Hofbräu-Münich. Oktoberfest Beer is a registered Trademark by the Club of Munich Brewers.

Crown Prince Ludwig, later to become King Ludwig I, was married to Princess Therese of Bavaria on October 12,1810. The citizens of Munich were invited to attend the festivities held on the fields in front of the city gates to celebrate the happy royal event. The fields have been named Theresienwiese (“Theresa’s meadow”) in honor of the Crown Princess ever since, although the locals have since abbreviated the name simply to the “Wies’n“.

Since 1950, there has been a traditional festival opening: A twelve gun salute and the tapping of the first keg of Oktoberfest beer at noon by the Mayor of Munich with the cry “O’ zapft ist!” (“It’s tapped!”) opens the Oktoberfest. The Mayor then gives the first beer to the Minister-President of the State of Bavaria.

History of the beer style: Also known as a Märzenbier (MARE-tzen-beer, “beer of March”) the style’s origin is credited to Gabriel Sedlmayr, based on an adaptation of the Vienna style developed by Anton Dreher around 1840, shortly after lager yeast was first isolated. It is typically brewed in the spring, signaling the end of the traditional brewing season and is stored in cold caves or cellars during the warm summer months, and served in autumn amidst traditional celebrations.

So – I tasted and formed opinions on the following five brews, not all of which are brewed in Munich (so they don’t qualify for the above list, necessarily), but all of which are German and therefore better representatives of the style (in my opinion) than most North American-brewed versions…

Weihenstephaner – 5.8% abv

  • color: clear straw, reminiscent of a pilsner; thin off-white head
  • nose: pretzels, graham crackers
  • flavor: thin, off-sweet, nice hop bitterness better suited to a Pilsner – not much of an O-fest…
  • overall: 3/5 – very tasty beer, but not well-suited for the category

Erdinger – 5.7% abv

  • color: slightly hazy straw to gold, thick white head
  • nose: pears/apricots, sweet – a little corn (diacteyl)
  • flavor: bread, malt, again diacetyl (caramel corn)
  • overall: 3.5/5 – not malty enough, too superficially sweet and affected by the diacetyl

Warsteiner – 5.9% abv

  • color: crystal clear deep gold, perfect off-white head
  • nose: malt, crackers, piney hops
  • flavor: rich, burnt sugar/caramel, malty
  • overall: 4/5 – from a brewery best known for an outstanding Pilsner, this is a very credible and well-made Märzen. Lovely to look at and eminently drinkable

Paulaner – 5.8% abv

  • color: reddish amber, thinnish white head
  • nose: floral hops, toasted malt, toffee
  • flavor: rich malty up front, dried fruit/raisins, some red wine-like tannins and tartness
  • overall: 4/5 – very much a classic example, well-rounded and complex

Spaten – 5.9% abv

  • color: amber, totally clear & bright, light off-white head
  • nose: malt, mild hops, pipe tobacco?
  • flavor: balanced – malt and hops take turns on the tongue, great sweetness and very pleasant bitterness
  • overall: 4.5/5

Ironically, the one of the five packaged in a green bottle came across as the freshest. There was not one I would dump down the sink, but clearly the beers brewed in Munich remain the best examples. Prost!

For more information about the Märzen/Oktoberfest style, or ideas on how to brew your own, I recommend (with a large grain of salt) George Fix’s Vienna/Märzen/Oktoberfest in the AHA Classic Style series. Whenever I am seeking information on a style, a brewery, a brewing region, I usually start with Michael Jackson’s “Beer Companion” or “New World Guide to Beer” When brewing or tasting the style, I always refer to the BJCP Style Guidelines, even if I don’t always follow them…

Fifty Shades of Grain?

September 21st, 2012 by The Guru

I am a big fan of irony. I had this idea to brew a batch with a cornucopia of different varieties and forms of grains, as my Autumnal Equinox brew. A harvest ale that would reflect the richness and diversity of the season. So I looked online to see what other people had brewed with, to get some ideas. First result returned by my search engine? My own BYO article from several years ago! I didn’t even remember having written it until that moment. Can I say that it was a very helpful article, without seeming smug?

This recipe contains twelve different grains, in seventeen different packages. Six malts, five flaked grains and six different whole grains needing to be pre-cooked. I can’t tell you specifically what each component adds to the mix, but the resulting wort tastes nutty, bready and sweet. I expect it will be a semi-cloudy beer in the end, just because of all the unmalted flaked grains. I opted for two German hops and an English yeast, seeking noble flavors and malt-forward sweetness, and rounded out the kettle with some invert sugar (golden syrup) just in case my mash was inefficient.

I was pleasantly surprised by how quickly and efficiently my lauter and sparge went – normally with this much flaked grain material, the whole thing can glue together and make a very slow runoff. I credit the malted oats, as their grain hulls stayed relatively whole after milling, creating a nice filter bed.

Green Man Mabon Ale

5 gallons, all-grain

Ingredients:

  • 2 lbs. malted oats
  • 1-1/2 lbs. malted rye
  • 1-1/2 lbs. malted spelt
  • 1 lb. malted red wheat
  • 2 lbs. 2-row pale malt
  • 1/2 lb. carapils malt
  • 1/2 lb. flaked wheat
  • 1/2 lb. flaked barley
  • 1 lb. flaked oats
  • 1 lb. flaked rye
  • 1 lb. flaked maize
  • 1/2 cup brown rice
  • 1/4 cup amaranth
  • 1/2 cup millet
  • 1/4 cup black quinoa
  • 1/2 cup buckwheat
  • 1/2 cup emmer
  • 1 tin (454 g) Lyle’s Golden Syrup
  • 1 oz. German Tradition hop pellets
  • 1 oz. whole Sterling hops
  • White Labs English Ale Yeast (WLP002)
  • 2/3 cup corn sugar (for priming)

Procedure:

Brew Day Eve: Cook the rice, amaranth, millet, quinoa, buckwheat and emmer in about 4 cups water for 30 minutes, or until all the water is absorbed and the grains are chewy. Leave covered overnight.

Brew Day: Crush the malts. Heat 17 quarts water to 165°F. Dough in malts, stir well. Add flaked grains, stir again. Add cooked grains, mix into malts and flakes. Cover and hold at 154°F for 75 minutes. Heat 15 quarts water to 169°F. Begin runoff and sparge, collecting 28 quarts sweet wort. Add Golden Syrup to kettle, bring to a boil. Add Tradition hops, boil 60 minutes. Add Sterling hops (in mesh bag), turn off heat. Steep for ten minutes then remove bag of hops. Chill to 80°F, take a hydrometer reading. Pour into a sanitized fermenter, splashing well to aerate. Pitch yeast, seal and ferment 10 days at 68°F. Rack to secondary, condition cooler (58 – 60°F) for two weeks. Prime with corn sugar and bottle, condition three weeks at 60°F.

OG: 1060

IBUs: 34

Note on grains: As was the case for an ancient Egyptian-style clone I brewed a few months ago, I had to malt the spelt myself, as I could not obtain malted spelt from any of my usual sources. I placed the spelt in a quart mason jar with a perforated sprouting top on it and soaked the grains for 24 hours, drained the liquid and allowed the grains to sprout over the course of several days, rinsing and draining once a day. When I began to see small sprouts at the ends of the majority of the grains, I spread them on a baking sheet and dried them in the oven set at 170°, with the door open. It took about 4 hours to dry, then I left them in the closed oven for 24 hours. I thought about trying to do the same with the rice, amaranth, quinoa, etc. but decided it was too much work. Those interested in growing or malting their own grains may want to check out the chapter in Joe & Dennis Fisher’s book “The Homebrewer’s Garden”.

Where’s there’s smoke…

August 26th, 2012 by The Guru

It began as a casual comment and mini-discussion between my friend Aaron and me. We were judging wheat beers at a recent homebrew club meeting and we had before us a Belgian Witbier (it turned out to be Aaron’s, I found out later) and I noted a faint smokiness to the beer (there was no smoked malt used in the brew)… A dreamy look must have come over my face as I remarked, “Hmm, wonder what a smoked witbier would be like…” We agreed it was worth a try, and left it at that.

The idea fermented for a while and then I got access to some oak-smoked wheat malt, which sounded to me like the perfect ingredient and the perfect excuse to try that smoked witbier I had put on the back burner, so to speak.

I wanted the smoke to be subtle, but also wanted it to be the only thing different about the beer, so I went in search of a classic Witbier recipe. I ended up with a combination of Pierre Rajotte’s Silk Lady and Sierra Blanc (from the AHA Style Series book “Belgian Ales”) and my own clone of Celis White (from “North American Clone Brews”), and then tweaked it to its actual form.

 

Fumée Blanche (Belgian style Witbier)

5 gallons, all-grain

Ingredients:

  • 5 lbs. Belgian pilsner malt
  • 1.5 lbs. light wheat malt
  • 1 lb. oak-smoked wheat malt
  • 1 lb. unmalted wheat berries
  • 1 lb. honey malt
  • 1 lb. flaked wheat
  • 1 oz. Saaz hop pellets (@ 4.0% aa)
  • coriander, cardamom, dried ginger root, bitter orange peel, ground coarsely
  • White Labs Wit II yeast (WLP 410)
  • 3/4 cup corn sugar (for priming)

Procedure: Crush grains (except the flaked wheat). Heat 13 quarts water to 165°F. Dough in grains and hold 60 minutes at 154°F. Heat 12 quarts water to 167°F. Begin runoff and sparge, collecting 23 quarts sweet wort. Bring to a boil, add Saaz pellets, boil 60 minutes. At kettle knockout, add spices and steep 5 minutes. Chill to 80°F and take a hydrometer reading. Pour into a sanitized fermenter, splashing well to aerate. Pitch yeast, seal and ferment at 65 – 68°F for ten days. Rack to secondary, condition 3 to 4 weeks. Prime with corn sugar, bottle and age 2 to 3 weeks.

OG: 1054

IBU’s: 17

Note on grains and style: The classic witbiers (Hoegaarden, Celis, Cheval Blanc) are all vaguely cloudy. This is due to the use of a certain amount of unmalted (i.e. starchy) wheat. I used unmalted wheat berries and flaked wheat, both, in this brew, and in the past I have even used a little whole wheat flour.

Notes on spices: I neglected to actually measure the spices used – which almost guarantees that this will end up with the perfect balance, and I will be unable to duplicate it… I would guess it was about 1 tbsp. of orange peel, 1/2 a tbsp. of ginger, 10 or 12 cardmom seeds and 20 or 25 coriander seeds…

Note on smoked grains: Here I go again… always with the smoked grains! I guess it’s becoming my house signature flavor…